Akira Isogawa: Former Surry Hills Atelier’s Fashion Pieces Set to Surge in Value

Fashion pieces created by Akira Isogawa, whose atelier once operated in Surry Hills, are predicted to double in price on the secondary market within two years, potentially reaching $1,000 per item.

Andrew Shapiro, managing director of Shapiro Auctioneers, provided this forecast, noting growing interest in Isogawa’s designs both in Australia and overseas.

Designer’s Career Track

Isogawa’s Australian fashion career began in 1988, just two years after arriving from Japan. Key milestones include:

– 1993: Opened his first store in Woollahra
– 1996: Breakthrough presentation at Australian Fashion Week
– 1998: Debuted on Paris catwalks

Studio Locations

Isogawa’s work has been associated with several Sydney locations:

– Surry Hills: Home to his early atelier
– Woollahra: Site of his first retail store on Queen Street
– Strand Arcade: Location of his recent archive store
– Marrickville: Current studio for collaborations and individual clients

His breakthrough moment came during Australian Fashion Week in 1996, where he presented as part of the new generation group show. This event attracted prestigious international buyers, including Browns in London and Biffi in Milan.

Unique Style and Influence

Isogawa’s East-meets-West style, incorporating vintage kimono fabrics, was ahead of its time in embracing upcycling. His designs have been featured in major exhibitions, including shows at the National Gallery of Victoria and the Powerhouse Museum.

Fleur Watson, an associate professor at RMIT University and long-time fan of Isogawa’s work, highlighted the designer’s ability to create preciousness in simple fabrics and his mastery of folding and cutting techniques.

Originally priced between $1500 to $2000 for evening dresses in the 1990s, with later commercial ranges selling for $600 to $1000, Isogawa’s pieces are now highly sought after by collectors.

Shapiro noted that collectors of other Japanese designers like Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto are particularly interested in acquiring Isogawa’s work.

Future Prospects

While Isogawa has stepped back from the mainstream fashion industry as of mid-2023, he continues to work on artistic collaborations and with individual clients from his Marrickville studio.

Watson emphasised the significance of Isogawa’s designs in Australian fashion history, describing them as an important part of the country’s collective culture.

Published 25-July-2024