Oxford Street is showing signs of life again — hoardings gone, a new bike path open to Taylor Square, and fresh arrivals joining the neighbourhood. Among them is Aenza, a Japanese-Australian wine bar that quietly opened its doors in July at 90 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, just a short stroll from its older sibling, the acclaimed sake bar Amuro on Crown Street.
Amuro earned a Good Food hat over its three years of operation, setting a high bar for chef-owner Joy Liu’s latest venture. At Aenza, Liu works alongside head chef Josh Liu to push further into creative territory, stepping away from the more structured Japanese framework that defines Amuro. The kitchen draws on familiar Japanese pantry staples — soy, miso, sansho, kombu — while folding in distinctly Australian seafood and the occasional nod to other culinary traditions, including mapo tofu and sweet-and-sour lamb ribs.
The room itself sets the tone immediately. Designed by Like Minds Studio, the 50-seat space is anchored by a nine-metre dark timber counter running the length of the open kitchen. The lighting is low and deliberate, creating an atmosphere that feels removed from the busy footpath outside — a useful quality on Oxford Street.
The menu opens with snacks and sashimi. A tomato wedge marinated in umeshu and finished with miso cream cheese and white anchovy layers freshness, acidity and umami into a single bite. Shiso-wrapped prawn with pickled chilli is considered and balanced, with fried leek adding texture.
Larger plates are where Aenza really finds its voice. A Murray cod, sustainably farmed and butterflied, arrives with skin crisped to the point of char while the flesh stays tender — a grilling achievement worth noting. Two sauces accompany it: a fermented yellow capsicum with confit garlic, and a shiso chimichurri. The bluefin tuna sashimi — two cuts, the leaner akami and the fattier toro, dressed in bonito-infused soy and sansho peppercorns — comes with Liu’s personal recommendation. A wagyu rib-cap appears for those after something more substantial, though the daikon braised in dashi alongside it may prove the more memorable element on the plate.
The drinks list runs to 120 bottles, with more than a quarter available by the glass. A concise selection of Japanese wines is a genuine point of difference in Sydney — the 2016 Shimora Koshu from Yamanashi prefecture, made from the indigenous koshu grape, offers gentle acidity and restrained sweetness that holds up well against the seafood dishes. A 2023 Grape Republic Rosso from Yamagata rounds out the Japanese wine options alongside Australian and French pours, plus Japanese whisky and highballs.
Desserts are prepared in-house by sous-chef Ping Li. A Basque cheesecake with Burgundy-poached pear — barely set, closer in texture to a silky savoury custard than a conventional cake — was the standout on a recent visit. A chiffon cake roll baked daily with miso caramel and candied walnut is also on offer.
The main constraint is physical: two-seater tables leave little room once menus, glasses and plates are factored in. It’s a minor friction in an otherwise well-considered experience.
For a neighbourhood mid-renewal, Aenza feels well-timed. Oxford Street could use more of this.
Aenza, Unit 7/90 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst. Open Monday, 5pm–10pm. Around $210 for two, excluding drinks. aenza.au
Published 22-September-2026
