What do the vibrant streets of Surry Hills and the intricate stitches of fashion’s past have in common? This suburb not only clothes the city but also tells the tale of New South Wales’ rich rag trade history, a narrative woven with the threads of innovation, migration, and transformation.
The Birth of a Fashion Hub
The tale begins in the 1860s, with the hum of Isaac Singer’s sewing machines setting the rhythm for prosperity.
As Sydney grew, so did the demand for fashionable attire, and Surry Hills, with its strategic location next to the bustling Central Station, quickly became the centre stage for clothing production.
Photo Credit: City of Sydney archives
The neighbourhood thrived as tailors, seamstresses, and designers clustered in its streets, turning bolts of fabric into the latest fashions. Ready-made clothing became a staple of Australian wardrobes, reflecting both the growing economic prosperity and the evolving social landscape.
Surry Hills’ factories buzzed from dawn till dusk, filled with the sounds of stitching and steaming, as garments were pieced together and pressed, ready to be shipped to shops nationwide. This thriving hub was not only a place of work but also a lively community where fashion was both a means of living and a passion.
The Golden Era of Surry Hills
The early 20th century saw Surry Hills buzzing with activity as electric machines from 1914 onwards, and the establishment of David Jones’ 8-storey garment factory in 1915, with an extension in 1935 boosted local production. The streets of Surry Hills were lined with factories and workshops where men’s and women’s fashions took shape, filling wardrobes and fueling the local economy.
By the 1940s, Surry Hills significantly contributed to Sydney’s identity, with half of the city’s women employed in the manufacturing industry, specifically in sewing, stitching, and designing. These workers were the backbone of the local economy. Many were skilled artisans who had learned their craft through apprenticeships that were as demanding as they were rewarding.
Photo Credit: City of Sydney archives
The close-knit nature of the community and the constant demand for new, innovative designs created a dynamic environment where creativity flourished. Garments produced here set trends that reverberated through the alleys of Surry Hills to the world’s fashion capitals. Despite the hard work, there was a sense of pride and accomplishment in being at the forefront of fashion manufacturing.
New Threads in the Old Fabric
Government housing, circa 1960s. Photo Credit: City of Sydney Archives [SRC14390]
Post-World War II brought a new chapter to Surry Hills with waves of migrants arriving in Australia.
These newcomers quickly established small factories and workshops, becoming entrepreneurs and employers, leveraging their skills and cultural knowledge to introduce European-inspired designs, which appealed to the Australian market’s growing desire for sophistication and variety.
The Decline of a Manufacturing Giant
The once-thriving factories saw a steep decline as cheaper imports flooded the market and local production dwindled, marking the end of an era for Surry Hills’ bustling rag trade.
The threads began to loosen when tariffs were slashed in 1973, aiming to streamline national industry but inadvertently exposing local manufacturers to fierce international competition.
The prevailing environment made it possible for overseas manufacturers to undercut prices, making it difficult for local factories to compete. Many businesses were forced to close, others downscaled, and the once-vibrant streets of Surry Hills began to quiet.
As manufacturing jobs disappeared, the social landscape of the area shifted. The community of skilled workers that had defined the suburb for decades began to disperse, sparking a significant economic and cultural shift, with long-term implications for the local economy and the identity of Surry Hills.
Surry Hills Today
Despite the decline in traditional manufacturing, the spirit of Surry Hills’ textile past lives on in its architecture and cultural fabric.
The area’s old garment factories have been reimagined as trendy commercial and lifestyle spaces, blending historical charm with modern chic.
The area was known for its manufacturing industry in the past, but now it has become a hub for fashion, design, and media.
These buildings have been repurposed to preserve the physical remnants of Surry Hills’ manufacturing past whilst injecting a new vibrancy into the area. The new spaces attract a diverse new generation of creatives and entrepreneurs. These repurposed buildings bridge past and present, offering spaces that honour their industrial origins while fostering contemporary innovation.
Legacy Amidst Ashes
A devastating fire at the former R.C. Henderson Ladies Hat factory along 11-13 Randle Street — once a symbol of Surry Hills’ manufacturing might—serves as another poignant reminder of the area’s transformative journey.
Developers Hanave have submitted an amended development application (D/2023/1170) for the site to the City of Sydney. This application aims to reconstruct the former heritage building, preserving its original brick facade and architectural details.
The redevelopment project was initially approved in 2018 to transform the Randle Street site into a hotel, with a deferred commencement approval granted in 2020. However, no construction had started when the fire occurred in May 2023.
As plans to convert these heritage sites into modern hubs progress, Surry Hills continues to weave its historical threads into the fabric of Sydney’s future.
Editor’s Note: Some significant historical details appearing in this article were sourced from an article on The Conversation by Peter McNeil, Distinguished Professor of Design History, UTS, University of Technology Sydney. You can read the original article here and click to listen to ABC Radio interviewing Prof McNeil.
Published 9-May-2024
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